Activism/Protest
In the midst of the Covid-19 pandemic, the murders of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor, and countless others catalyzed an unprecedented number of Black Lives Matter protests across the globe, bringing citizens together in the streets for the first time in months. These masked protesters presented an ocean of unified voices through the powerful visual language of clothing. Conjuring the long history of white as a color of protest, marchers dressed in white at Brooklyn’s Black Trans Lives Matter rally, while female politicians frequently united in white suits, elevating statements of dissent to the highest levels of government. These tensions escalated toward a momentous presidential election that made Kamala Harris the first female, Black, and Southeast Asian Vice President, who wore white in her historic acceptance speech in homage to the women’s suffrage movement. Fashion designers and consumers joined these vital conversations through support of causes that aligned with their beliefs. Brandon Blackwood sparked a sensation with his “End Systemic Racism” bag while designer Korina Emmerich visually and fiscally supported BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) creators, using her own Indigenous background as inspiration. The collaboration between women’s workwear brand Argent and activist group Supermajority capitalized on the traditionally feminine symbolism of pink in a boldly political pantsuit, encouraging women of all demographics to take to the polls.
A pink suit by Argent, a blue handbag by Brandon Blackwood, a matching hat and mask and coat by Korina Emmerich,
A protest ensemble worn by activist, Daria Dee, an interpretation of a safe protest ensemble, and a poster advertising how to protest safely during a pandemic.
A customized protest ensemble worn by activist, Daria Dee.
American
Protest Ensemble worn by Daria Dee, June 14, 2020
“Trust You Faith” t-shirt and jeans of white cotton; “Avengers” polychrome cotton boxer shorts; “Black Lives Matter” black and white cotton mask; synthetic black wig with glitter
Courtesy Daria Dee
This white ensemble was worn by protester Daria Dee to the Black Trans Lives Matter march that took place on June 14, 2020 in Brooklyn, New York. The march protested the violence faced by the Black transgender community, and Dee’s coordinated outfit reflects the dress code protesters were asked to follow. This directive referenced the NAACP’s 1917 New York City “Silent Protest Parade,” where white clothing was used by protestors to project a united front in response to an attack on a predominantly Black neighborhood in East St. Louis, MO. These activists joined together in protest against the violence faced by the Black community over one hundred years ago in a harrowing precedent to today’s marches and rallies. The use of white also precluded the use of rainbow motifs, the traditional colorway for LGBTQIA+ events, which has become co-opted by big businesses. By wearing this uniform, Daria Dee and fellow protesters marched in physical and visual solidarity in keeping with these important historic precedents.
An interpretation of a safe protest ensemble accompanied by a poster advertising how to protest safely during a pandemic.
Black Lives Matter (American, founded 2013)
With assorted makers
‘Safe Protest Ensemble,’ 2020
“Black Lives Matter” t-shirt and jeans of white cotton; “Black Lives Matter” mask of white and black cotton knit; assorted “Black Lives Matter” buttons
Courtesy Private Lenders
Accompanied by the ‘How to Protest Safely During a Pandemic’ poster, this ensemble emphasizes the importance of practicing safety measures while attending protests amid the global Covid-19 pandemic. Highlighting organizations and causes that have been featured in the ‘Protest/Activism’ windows, the ensemble features an official Black Lives Matter logo shirt and assorted Black Lives Matter pins. The mannequin is dressed in all white to pay homage to the June 14th Black Trans Lives Matter protest against the fatal violence disproportionately affecting the black trans community. Additionally, the ‘ideal protestor’ highlights safe protest essentials such as goggles, gloves, a face mask, and an environmentally friendly reusable water bottle. Although social distancing was made difficult by the large turnout during protests, masks and hand sanitizers were worn and distributed by activists for protection against Covid-19.
A photo of activist, Daria Dee, at a Black Lives Matter protest.
Digital Slideshow: Images from Black Lives Matter Protests, June–December 2020
Photographs by Xavier Burrell, Simbarashe Cha, Bryan Denton, Sekiya Dorsett, William Farrington, Demetrius Freeman, Claudio Furlan, Justin Lane, Paul Martinka, Kyla Milberger, William Miller, G. N. Miller, Sean Rayford, Ian Reid, Charlie Riedel
©Daria Dee; ©EPA/Justin Lane; ©Getty Images; ©LA Times; ©LaPresse via AP; ©NBC News; ©The New York Times; ©NY Post; ©Pavement Pieces; ©REUTERS
©Sean Rayford, IG: @theangrywhale; ©Vogue
As the country, and the whole world, dealt with the ongoing Covid-19 pandemic, the murders of George Floyd, Breonna Taylor and countless others at the hands of police brought the issues of racial injustice and police brutality to the forefront of the nation. In early summer, a series of Black Lives Matter protests erupted across the globe, demanding justice and social reform. At the height of the protests on June 6th, half a million people joined fellow protesters in nearly 550 locations. Citizens and communities gathered in the streets, despite stay-at-home orders and the potential risk of acquiring and spreading Covid-19, in an effort to make their voices heard. Protestors were masked and socially distant when possible, but their message was more unified than ever as they marched against structural racism and police brutality against people of color. This selection of photographs showcases some of the people and communities that came together in unprecedented numbers around the world, despite a viral global pandemic, to demand justice and call for systematic change.
A pink, wool-elastine suit by Argent in collaboration with Supermajority.
Argent (American, founded 2016)
Argent x Supermajority Pink Suit, 2020
Pink wool-elastane twill
Courtesy Argent x Supermajority
Supermajority (American, founded 2019)
“We Are the Supermajority” mask, and “Women All In” buttons
Black cotton knit with pink and orange transfer-printed text; metal, paper and plastic
Courtesy Private Lender; Courtesy Argent x Supermajority
This bold, hot pink woolen suit is the result of a collaboration between the women's workwear brand Argent and the activist organization Supermajority, whose goal is to promote the political agency of female voters. By joining together to create this ensemble, Argent and Supermajority set out to provide women with an empowering uniform for voting and political engagement. The suit serves as an immediate and striking example of fashion used as social messaging: it was released on October 7, 2020, in order to coincide with the presidential election. The 2020 election was particularly important as political tensions were heightened by a year of protests against racial injustice and a worldwide pandemic. Celebrities including America Ferrera, Kerry Washington, Mandy Moore, and many others memorably wore the suit in social media posts to encourage voting participation, visually enhancing their messages with the strikingly pink ensemble.
An aqua blue snakeskin handbag by Brandon Blackwood that reads “END SYSTEMIC RACISM.”
Brandon Blackwood (Jamaican-Chinese, born 1991)
“ESR” (End Systemic Racism) Tote, 2020
Aqua blue snakeskin
Courtesy Brandon Blackwood, New York
"Systemic oppression is displayed throughout all walks of life, including fashion. Think back to a few years ago when every runway, ad, and commercial was almost completely white. There are still very few Black/POC creatives taking up important spaces in fashion and this is not by coincidence."
—Brandon Blackwood, 2020
When leather goods designer Brandon Blackwood witnessed the mass protests of 2020, galvanized by widespread racial injustice in the U.S., he felt it was necessary to approach fashion in a new way. He aimed to create pieces that would take a stance on racial inequalities and would provide consumers with something to wear that visibly reflected this universal message. This is how his "End Systemic Racism" tote, also nicknamed the "ESR" tote, was born. The tote embodies Blackwood’s new methodology in designing products that have a direct impact against systemic abuse. To Blackwood, the term “End Systemic Racism” says it all. To further this message, a portion of the proceeds from sales of the ESR tote are put towards funding legal assistance via the Lawyers Committee for Civil Rights, a non-profit offering pro bono legal aid for people of color. As a Jamaican-Chinese designer with an international upbringing, Blackwood uses his diverse background and experience to speak to a broad global audience through his work. His goal for the ESR tote is to promote the concept that we must know and understand our diverse history in order to move forward together.
A black and white wool hat and mask using Pendleton fabric by Korina Emmerich.
EMME (American, founded 2015)
Korina Emmerich (Puyallup Tribe, The Coast Salish Territory, born 1986)
“Split Shot” Face Mask, 2020
Black and white cotton-wool Pendleton fabric
Courtesy EMME, Korina Emmerich
EMME (American, founded 2015)
Korina Emmerich (Puyallup Tribe, The Coast Salish Territory, born 1986)
Keta Fisher Hat, 2020
Black and white cotton-wool Pendleton fabric
Courtesy EMME, Korina Emmerich
In addition to her design work, Korina Emmerich is an activist for both indigenous and sustainability causes. She is an advocate for the Why We Wear Red campaign that brings awareness to the rising incidence of violence against indigenous women, is a member of the Indigenous Kinship Collective, and currently serves on the board of directors for the Slow Factory Foundation. Her Split Shot masks were originally designed as protest statement pieces and took on new meaning as Covid-19 swept the globe. Her use of Pendleton fabrics—which have been produced since the 19th century in authentic Native American patterns and have been incorporated into traditional Southwest indigenous ceremonial uses—allows her to create designs that are influenced by indigenous culture without contributing to the rampant cultural appropriation that exists in mainstream fashion. By producing her pieces by hand without the assistance of studio employees or staff, Emmerich avoids the systems that stand to profit from and actively exploit vulnerable communities.
A black, white, and red wool coat using Pendleton fabric by Korina Emmerich.
EMME (American, founded 2015)
Korina Emmerich (Puyallup Tribe, The Coast Salish Territory, born 1986)
EMME “Yakima” Coat, Mother of Waters Collection, 2020
Red, black, and white wool Pendleton fabric
Courtesy EMME, Korina Emmerich
Korina Emmerich is a New York-based designer who uses her platform to actively challenge systems of oppression and systemic racism. Both her work and design processes are frequently inspired by her indigenous heritage, informing her choice of color, fabric, and sustainable production practices. Items like the Yakima coat are made to order, in an attempt to push back against the wasteful and environmentally harmful practices that have become the industry standard. Her dedication to “slow fashion” is both a commitment to sustainability and an homage to her cultural upbringing, which taught her the importance of being kind to nature. Through her process, she respects the full life cycle of a garment by exclusively using natural fibers and relying on small batch production.